8 Simple Tips for a Great Kayfun Build

kayfun-3-1

How to get the Best Flavor and Vapor with Your Kayfun

The Kayfun 3.1 changed the way we vape. That might be a bold statement, but in a short amount of time, it went from a boutique product to one of the top choices in rebuildable atomizers. Offering a killer combination of excellent flavor, good vapor production, solid construction, and an easy build, the Kayfun quickly inspired a plethora of copycats and clones and became a staple in almost every vaper’s arsenal. 

Even though the Kayfun is considered significantly easier to build than the popular Genesis-style, Kayfun style atomizers can throw a few curves at the unsuspecting vaper. Just a few simple dos and don’ts will keep you ensconced in clouds. Here are the 8 things you need to know in-order to guarantee an amazing silica build (but you can apply these tips to cotton as well).

But first, let’s get straight on the terminology. The chimney consists of two parts: the upper and lower. The upper looks like an inverted funnel and threads onto the lower bit. The entire chimney threads onto the deck. The deck is the top part of the base that you build a coil on. The juice channels are on either side of the deck, perpendicular to the coil set screws. Got it? Let’s go, then…

1. Keep the channel clear

You might have heard this one before, because it’s the most common issue. Too much wick can block the channels that lead from the juice tank to the inner chamber and impair wicking. This leads to dry hits and leaking, and no one wants that. Excess air pressure inside the tank has to go somewhere, and that somewhere usually farts straight out the air hole – onto your mod and hand – gross!

2. Don’t skimp out on the wick though!

This particular style of rba seems to live and die with proper wick length and placement.  A wick that is too long interferes with juice flow and will cause a flood. However, a wick that’s too short will lead to dry hits at taste like Satan’s balls. You’ll have to experiment a bit to get it perfect, but in general, you want to wick to just contact the deck. Take a note from Goldilocks and get it just right.

3. Perfect placement is essential.

kayfun-atty

Whichever style of coil you choose to build, it works best if it’s built at an angle. That way, the end of the wick falls to the side of the juice channel. It’s really important to get this right. Here’s my method:

  • Build the coil at an angle, about negative 45-degrees from perpendicular to the post screws (think Northwest). This will allow the wick to spin along with the lower chimney as you thread it onto the deck so it stays out of the threads.
  • Add some liquid to the entire wick and make sure it’s out of the channels.
  • Thread the lower chimney (WITHOUT the upper chimney piece) gently onto the deck. The juice should help hold the wick in place.
  • If some of the wick gets caught in the threads outside the chamber, just bite the bullet and do it all over again.
  • Fire it and check for hot spots. If you see any small bit of the coil heat up before the rest, you’ve got a hot spot. Once it’s good, thread on the top chimney section.

5. No, really – check for hot spots.

It’s not enough to just dry fire and check for a uniform glow from the inside out. Saturate the wick and check for hot spots and hot legs. Any bit of the coil heating irregularly will cause nasty flavor.

6. Give her some air!

On a Kayfun-style atty, air flows from under the coil. If the coil is built too close (or resting on) the center air-hole, you’ll choke it, which can cause all kinds of trouble. Do yourself a favor and build your coil 1 or 2 mm above the air-hole.

7. Fill ‘er up!

Once you’ve set up your coil it’s time to fill that baby up with that sweet e juice nectar of the gods. There are two ways to fill a Kayfun, so here are both methods:

  • The safest way is to simply use the filling screw on the bottom (or side) of the base. You’ll need a syringe or needle-nosed bottle, but that one dollar investment can save you lots of money in leaked juice. Just turn the atty upside down, remove the fill hole screw, fill ‘er up and replace the screw. While it’s still upside-down, I usually blow through the air hole gently to make sure the pathway is free of juice.
  • The other way is the “flip” method. With the tank disassembled, thread all pieces together but the top-most cap. Fill the tank reservoir directly. Place the top cap on, just enough that the O-ring seats. Give it about 1/8 of a turn. Now place your thumb over the airhole, flip upside-down and thread it together quickly. While it’s still upside-down, blow gently through the air-hole to equalize pressure and get rid of any accumulated juice.

Pro-tip: Remember that there’s an o-ring in the top cap that must secure the top of the chimney. If that seal is loose, you’ll get a mouthful of juice.

8. Sub-Ohm-Oh-No

Sure, lots of people build sub-ohm coils on their Kayfun-style atomizers. But these devices are not designed to be fog machines; they’re designed for flavor and thick vapor. If you want to blow clouds, get yourself a Gennie. I find the best results around 1.5 ohms.

Now Get Out There and Vape!

The Kayfun is a great device, plain and simple. Just remember these tips – keep the juice channels clear, perfect your wick length/placement, and keep your coil glowing evenly –  and you’ll take your vaping experience to a new level.

Do you have any specific tips or tricks for a great Kayfun build? Sound off in the comments!

25 thoughts on “8 Simple Tips for a Great Kayfun Build

  1. I like cotton over silica, too! Good suggestions.

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  2. For a perfect wick take a cotton ball and split it in half down the length of the cotton. Split it again so you have a strand a quarter wide of the initial width. Thread this through the coil. Leave the tails long and put on the bottom of the chimney. Now trim the cotton as close as possible to the top of the chimney. Wet the cotton and push it back down into the base. Perfect wick amount and length.

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  3. What size coil do you use(diameter), what gauge wire, and many tank fills can you get out of cotton wicks. Is a tight coil or spaced coils better?

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    • I wrap 28g Kanthal around a 3/32 drill bit, slide it off, hold tight in needle nose pliers and torch it. I squeeze it tight with pliers after firing for a second or two and keep firing until I see it glow from inside out. Cotton wick with channels clear and good to go about 1.3 ohms.

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        • Great web page to set up your builds in different diameters, it also have a wide data base of mech mods and regulated ones, also different batteries with their presets, so they will tell you if your build is good for the battery you intend to use. I build my kayfun lite plus with 28 gauge kanthal using a 5/64 drill bit, doing 8 to 9 wraps for a perfect 1.2 1.4 ohm build. I use it on my nemesis and on my evic with the NCR 18650B from Panasonic, it lets me vape for days without charging it, but that will depend on how much you vape. If your using your mech mod try and checking out your battery life at least once a day so you can determine how long a battery last until its time to charge. I use them until there’s 30% battery life left.

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  4. Great information here! I use 28g Kanthal wire and a medium+ internal diameter sized coil to keep the coil saturated (W/10 wraps). That comes out to 20Ω. I use a fairly hard to get undyed organic cotton yarn (Inca/Peru). The yarn is two twisted cords. One skinny and one fat cord. I thread the yarn through the coil and separate a fat cord and thread that through the coil as well. I situate my coil exactly as the orientation you’ve described above. I place the frayed wick ends just as you’ve described but arch the extra cord I threaded through the coil and place it on the other side of the juice channel. It takes a fraction of a second for the coil to heat up to the vape temperature I like but the end result is complete satisfaction!! I tried skinnier coils and lower resistance but they heated up too fast and burnt the cotton.

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  5. No argument nor troll here, I just want to share my own experience. On a VW device (I was using a kick 2) I found coils above 1.5 ohm to be perfect indeed. Anything lower and the vape would get too dry or too hot.
    Then, I received some 22Ga kanthal. My current coil is 640mOhm (About 2mm diameter, 8 wraps), been vaping on that for two weeks, and it’s amazing. I shelved the kick and cancelled my Hana clone order. I’d never thought I could get even more flavor out of my kayfun. On my kayfun clone, I built a 500mOhm coil, and this can get a little burnt. Sweet spot must be in between. Oh and the insulators are handling perfectly well the higher amp.
    Don’t be so fast to dismiss sub ohm builds in the Kayfun, this atomiser really shines whatever build you throw in it. And dropping anything electronic from your device is pretty motivating. At least it is (was) for me.
    Thanks for gathering these essentials (without making a f…ing video) in a single blog post, I’ll be sure to link it to friends wishing to rebuild. 🙂

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    • I made the first coil for my 3.1 which tested at 2.2‎Ω, just as I’d’ decided to re-build a little closer to 1.5‎Ω I read the comment above. Seems luck was on my side that day, like many vapers I use all sorts, from drippers to sub tanks, but for pure flavor this Kayfun with a 2.2‎Ω coil is seriously hard to beat. Thanks, Nicolas you were spot on.

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  6. My Favorite build is a double barrel @ 0.6ohm, best flavor I’ve ever gotten out of my kayfun, but yeah anything lower the cotton doesnt wick fast enough and you get dry hits

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  7. I wrap 28g kanthal around a small screwdriver (You know… The ones used for electronics and such? Not sure of the size…) 8-10X’s. This gives me a 1.5/6 ohm reading, which is PERFECT. Then I “mount” it on the kayfun at a 45° angle, checking for hot spots and making sure it glows from the inside out. When I got the coil right, I take my cotton and twist it up, about 2″ long and thread it threw the coil. Next, I put the bottom of the chimney on, with the cotton sticking out the top. Now I cut the cotton as close to the edge of the chimney, then use a toothpick to push the cotton down to the “deck”. I wet it down with whatever juice I’m using and then assemble everything and fill ‘er up, using the “flip method”. Never had a problem, great flavors, thick, warm vapor and good clouds… Did I mention GREAT FLAVOR?? On top of that, my coil will last for a month! (If I want it to). Just my 2 cents and how I do it, takes me all of 5 minutes to change wicks and fill er a$$ up!

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  8. after trying countless times on placing cotton wicks away from the juice channels, i still cant have a great and consistent vape. then i tried placing the cotton on top/ blocking the channels. i mean just pressing the wick lightly and not too hard to cover the channels. never had dry hits,leaks and wicking problems ever since. been using that method for 5 months now. works for me 🙂
    i use kfl, 30awg 8/7 wraps on 1.5mm drillbit sterile cotton. 50/50 juice

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  9. Just my two cents on the wicking. I make the cotton tails long, about 1/2 in past the deck. I pull them up very gently, making a “V” and thread the barrel over that. Then I cut the cotton approximately 1/4″ in above the barrel and lightly press it down with a screwdriver, needle or whatever to the void. NEVER had a wicking issue doing it this way.

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  10. Look up the Clapton coil build. It’s the best vapor production I’ve gotten out of my kayfun, and the flavor is on point. This build does take some time to build, but look up the video and he’ll step you right through it.

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  11. I got myself a Kaifun3.1 today and was struggling to get the canthal under the screws, but when tightning the screws the canthal flips loose again an again, instead getting depressed I used the holes right under the annoiing screws and the coil that way, It works well.But the screws are a real pain in the rectum.I am more content with the russians i’ve use for some time now.Also I expirieced placing the wick like SHOT does works the best for me. Nice to read.

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    • If it’s a clone from fasttech or somewhere else it’s easy, find some spare screws which are flat on the part that connects with the deck. I bought some of them from SvoeMesto and they fit perfectly.

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  12. I’ve built all sizes and diameters of coils. with a range of different kanthal guages in my 91% clone and usually just remove the cotton, burn off the crap on the coil and then re-cotton it. Never have to renew the cotton more than once a week to 10 days and vape approx 3 fills per day at low wattage between 5 and 10 watts, both pwm and dc-dc depending on what’s needed for that particular coil.
    I find that the same coil can be amazing with one amount of cotton and bloody awful with another cotton amount so i would say the cotton wick thickness and length is just as, if not more important than the coil build.
    Just went from a large diameter shortish 1.0ohms coil to a narrow long coil at 1.3 ohms with much less wicking material and it seem to be working nicely with the slower warmup and tastes nice on DC-DC 5 ohms, plenty of vapour too!
    I would say experiment and find out what suits you as the kanthal and cotton is very cheap anyway.

    Reply
  13. Hi Guys

    Went through all comments and even through websites… I can’t find the solution to muted flavours. The flavour does come out but minimal/half of what I get from a Kanger or Lemo. Using Vapor Flask for mod which should be pretty okay for this kinda mod apart from P3. Appreciate some help here would be wonderful. Thanks Guys!

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    • There can be zillion of factors. I thought I can even “sense” some muted flavor from using a “Navy Nest” wicking style. Your coil plays a role, your juice, your wick, wattage etc. 1st, dont compare this to a subohm device. For me, subohming produces too hot of a vape, it needs too much air and in fact I think the flavor is “too harsh”. The Kayfun is like in the middle, say, from a Nautilus Mini to SubOhming. The Kayfun *might* maybe have a nuance less flavor but overall gives a more consistent experience, not so “hardcore” like subohming some pipe right into your lungs. I’d just start it very simple, 28G Kanthal, 8 or so wraps single coil, go for 1.3-1.5, tight coil, NOT spaced out. And then go from there. TBH while “in theory” possible to subohm with a Kayfun you might hit some limits sooner or later. That being said it could be you can get some good experience with dual coils, 0.8, 0.7…but anything below is too extreme and it’s simply not made for it in my opinion. (Except if you get a Russian 91 or a Monster w/ bigger juice and air channels).

      Reply
  14. As a relatively new Kayfun owner I am coming back here constantly. You are so right, wick placement is everything, it can make the difference between a horrid experience and a superb one. Sometimes trivial changes make all the difference. Some of the clones out there have rather small juice channel, then it’s even more important to “get it just right”, not to choke the channels but on the other hand enable the device to get enough juice so you don’t get any dry hits. It’s not always easy! It’s a balance act and needs many tries. After many tests, single/dual coils, subohming etc. for me it works best with a single coil, 1.2 Ohm-1.4 Ohm and then organic cotton “straight down”, covering the sides and just “barely” touching the deck. “Z” with the 45 deg offset works also. Kayfun Lite V2 (Ehpro) is 20% coil but 80% how you make your wick. If you dabble into subohming you will quickly run into juice flow and airflow problems, at least with many clones where the channels are not big enough.

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  15. The best Kayfun build is anywhere between 0.8 to1.2ohms. I feel 0.8ohms is perfect on a Kayfun Lite. Also, when you build your coil at an angle, make sure the cotton wick is laying across the entire deck. Put the lower chimney on, moisten the wick then use a small screwdriver to lightly push the wick down across the entire deck. PS: Don’t fill a Kayfun up to the top.

    Reply

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